cutting the other edge
Europe
Mauer Mob
Oct 14th
Recreating the Berlin Wall…with people.
From their website (in English):
This project is initiated by Martin Butler, a British performance maker and curator, working together with the liminal institute.
“Mauer Mob. 2009 – Recreating the Berlin Wall” is a large scale art project in the frame work of the 20 year anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, in Berlin, Germany. The idea is to form on the 9th of november 2009 – the night the Wall fell 20 years ago – a line of people that will recreate the Berlin Wall with their physical presence, marking the path where the wall once stood. Thousands of people will form a human chain that will make its way on the 9th of november around 8.15pm. This action will last for approximately 15 minutes.
The Berlin Wall project is about creating a “temporary monument of reflection”. When it was created, the wall was one of the clearest man-made divisions of people with different ideologies. For the 20th anniversary of its deconstruction we will rebuild the Berlin Wall, not from steel and concrete, but from people. To remember when Berlin became one again after decades of separations – physically as well as in the minds…
The flash mob will consist of 330 groups, forming a line from Köppchen See area in the north, to Lohmülenstraße by Treptow in the south, with the bulk of participants centering near Brandenburger Tor. The organizers hope to see thousands of people participate. You can register for a place on their homepage by clicking on a little person icon and entering your information.
Mass movements are pretty.
Ich habe mit meinem Herz hämmerte
Sep 30th

“We’re in a road movie to Berlin
Can’t drive out the way we drove in
So sneak out this glass of bourbon
And we’ll go

“We were once so close to heaven
Peter came out and gave us medals
Declaring us the nicest of the damned
Time won’t find the lost
It’ll sweep up our skeleton bones
So take the wheel and I will take the pedals

“We’re in a road movie to Berlin
Can’t drive out the way we drove in
So sneak out this glass of bourbon
And we’ll go…”
-They Might Be Giants, Flood, 1987
Inauguration Countdown, Day Seven: Europe Version
Jan 13th
I was in France when the tide started turning.
Sunday, August 28, 2005: My 27th birthday. Katrina became a category 5 hurricane at ten a.m., and aimed itself at the Gulf Coast. I was packed, sitting on my suitcases in Tallahassee, waiting to see how far east the airport shutdowns would stretch. Should we try to drive to Pensacola, where I was due to meet my friend and get on a plane for a year in Europe?
If we left too early, and Pensacola’s airport was shut down, we might not make it back to Tallahassee in time for a replacement flight. But if we stayed in Tallahassee and waited too long to see, we’d miss the Pensacola flight if that airport stayed open.
I knew Katrina wouldn’t hit my family’s home in Tallahassee. Too far away, too far inland. But Pensacola, my hometown? Ravaged as it had been by Hurricane Ivan the previous fall, another storm was the last thing it needed. Plus, it was the home of the friend I was going to meet, and of his family. I remembered too well the trauma of watching Ivan unfold, stranded in Virginia with no way to get home and help my friends. The thought of that happening again–this time with me in Europe–broke my heart. Pensacola, Tallahassee, New Orleans–all cities I loved, all cities I had to leave in danger when I got on that plane.
They closed the Pensacola airport at noon. Our flight left from Tallahassee in the small hours of Monday the 29th, as New Orleans was being beaten to death. In Paris, we watched on our computers in a Montmartre hotel as the carnage progressed; we saw the flooding, and the burning, and I cried. We walked to the Tour Eiffel, and I marveled that such delicate strength could exist in the same life as such ugly brutality.
There was sniping. There were floating bodies. We heard the President of France, Jacques Chirac, had written a letter to Bush, offering assistance with this grandest of fuck-ups. We visited Notre Dame for the first time, and I wrote in the prayer book there: Priez pour les résidants de la Nouvelle-Orléans, de Biloxi et de Mobile, les Etats-Unis, svp. I saw the rose windows through tears.
A train took me to Aix-En-Provence. I passed the fourth anniversary of 9-11 in the kitchen of my Provençal host mother, watching the memorial on French television news. As they honored the anniversary with far more respect and dignity than I was used to from the American media, I burst into tears of shame. My host mother hugged me awkwardly and muttered, “Ne sois pas triste. Tous nos gouvernements sont terribles.”
I kept up with American news as best as I could, with shitty wireless internet and sites like AmericaBlog and Rude Pundit. In Giverny that November, I neglected my painting, celebrating the downfall of Scooter Libby and looking forward to Fitzmas with other liberal blogheads. And in Scotland the following January, I voiced my tiny protest against Justice Alito by posting the story of my abortion–one of the most personal things I’ve ever done over the internet.
I lived in Europe from late August 2005, to early May 2006. During that time, I received only the tiniest amount of personal hostility for being an American. Nevertheless, I had a constant feeling of oppressive embarrassment, of trigger-happy defensiveness. There was continual low-grade mockery of Bush, especially in the British media, which I suppose was to be expected…but it still grated on me. I knew people couldn’t tell just by looking at me, but I resented feeling the desire to blend in.
When I’d left the United States in ’05, I was sick to death of it. I was escaping it. But by the time I’d decided that November to return to Florida the following summer and pursue writing, I’d embraced my Americanness and become perversely proud of it. I wanted to take it back, that feeling of patriotism, that had been hijacked and twisted so violently by the Right. It was my country too. I decided to be proud of America, of what we had been and could be.
It was a difficult stance to take. It required a lot of soul-searching and courage. Who was I, in relation to this evil empire? What part of it was my fault? What did I have the right to ask of it, and what respect did I have the right to expect of others?
I came to some conclusions, as I painted and wrote and healed. I was an American, in the old-fashioned, original sense of the word. I was an American, in spite of our unpopularity in the world, and in spite of my own damn government.
I vowed to return, and take my fucking country back.
I left a nation that had just voted Bush a second term. I returned to a nation that was about to vote the Congress blue–and I participated. I saw a year of American history from outside the United States, while simultaneously feeling as though I had to act as an emissary and a defendant of my country. It changed me.
That year, bounded by Katrina and Pelosi, apparently changed us all.
I leave for Europe again before long. It may be too early to say, but I expect to arrive on a wave of goodwill–not in flight from a storm. Look what we’ve done, for better and worse. Look who’s about to be running the show. I expect American pride will come a lot more easily now than it did in 2005. I expect it to take a lot less courage.
I’ll never make a big deal about where I come from. Once again, I’ll probably be mistaken for European anyway–until I open my mouth. The difference this time will be internal. No more defiance, caught between the contempt the world had for Americans, and the hatred the Bush administration had for Americans like me. No more feeling like a woman without a country. This time, I will walk through the world as the citizen of a nation that belongs to me again, and that I am glad to belong to.
The quiet pride inside me will flow smoother than silk, winding around my memories of the victorious fight of the past two years.
Key to a Shrine
Sep 14th
I know I missed Britpop. I know I was not only merely sixteen in 1994, but also on the wrong continent. Where I was living in the mid-nineties, Blur was nothing more than the band that had released “Song #2″, tricking all the frat boys into buying what they thought would be a rock album, but which turned out to be cynically twee hangover-pop. Blur was my weird shame, Oasis my embarrassingly cocky proclivity, to be hidden from my friends as so much of my music was. But what was a “club kid” to me in 1994, except ads for odd clothes in the back of expensive music magazines? I was a grunge grrl. Pacifiers were for babies.
By the time I understood Cool Britannia, it was several years back in the blurry collective memory, and England herself was indeed hungover. But no matter. When in London, I threw myself into grimy streets that no longer gave any fuck about AbFab, or Noel Gallagher’s eyebrows, or translucent shark slices. Who knows where that headtrip went? Probably into the same dumpster where they tossed the silver windpants and chewed-up glowsticks after Y2K. Nevertheless, I chased it all over England, that lucid delirium. Finding it in the sparkle of a sunset on the Thames after a few Guinness and some Thornton’s chocolate, in the almost imperceptible movement of the lights on a closed London Eye at midnight, in the jolting, decrepit thrust of an accelerating Tube train–a flashing exuberance, a driving and mad exultation, the gloss on the decadence. Cool Britannia isn’t gone, it’s a mindset. It’s just the form that magic takes in London.
When everything around you is moving, the human tide breaking and swirling around the aggressively grand old architecture; the sense of history pulling like an undertow, just making our modern selves swim faster; til all is racket and motion and smell, and you can feel the web of tracks under your feet, and reach with ecstatic fingers towards the same grey sky the trees in Hyde Park have clawed for centuries…in clammy fog, in needle rain, in giddy sunshine, it’s always been there. Dip your head in that river.
More Precious than Diamonds
Apr 3rd
Coming back from Islington on the bus tonight, we passed a Cartier shop on Sloane Street, going towards Sloane Square. I only checked myself when I noticed that my eyes glossed right over it. I suppose it’s part of the overall oversaturation that I fear I’m beginning to suffer. I feel like I have to force myself to pay attention to what I’m seeing, to really see it, rather than just letting my sight slide over it as though it were nothing but a bunch of random flat colors and shapes. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve seen nice jewelry before, but there’s no sense in taking it for granted that, right now, I live right around the corner from such a place. It’s one thing to drink in sights and sounds with the intention of later analysis; it’s another thing entirely to let them wash over you in a meaningless wave. Have I truly grown so numb?
The closest business to my home in the U.S. is a gas station with a Burger King. The next time I drive ten minutes from my house to get there, will I remember how I gawped mindlessly at some of Europe’s finest sights? Will I remember how I sank into an exhausted haze and let the clock run out? Or will I fill up my tank and eat my hamburger cheerfully, content in the knowledge that I pushed myself, and really absorbed everything that this nine-month marathon threw my way?
Decline And Fall
Mar 27th
Went to a party with A and P on Saturday. My heart told me to beg off and stay home, but I didn’t want to be rude to the hostess, whom I’d promised to come. Should have stayed at the flat. There was a terribly anti-American cokehead Englishman neighbor at the party, who picked relentlessly at me. I’m ashamed to admit that I wasted time arguing with him. Ladies, you know the type–the skinny, twitchy, balding loudmouth who begins every sentence with “Well, women blah blah blah…”, and then shouts down his girlfriend when she tries to argue. Even though he’d never heard of William Blake (an English poet), he still told me he’d “tried to challenge me on my level, but was afraid I’d failed”, apparently because I haven’t yet read Milton. When I got irritable with him, he said in a chiding tone of voice, “now you’re acting a bit American”. Does it surprise anyone that he’d never been to the States?
I’ve been in Europe seven months, I’ve had challenges thrown at me about my country’s politics; and each time, the person seemed genuinely interested in my answers. French people, Mexican people, Scottish people, German people, they all pick, but then they all listen. Because guess what? Everyone seems to want to understand what the hell is going on in the world right now. We all do need to talk about it. Regular Americans and regular people from other countries need to discuss their perceptions, so that we can all realize that it isn’t “America vs. Whoever”, it’s “shitty government vs. shitty government, with regular people everywhere left holding the bag”. Most people, I think, suspect this, and are glad to have it confirmed that plenty of Americans are resisting this slide towards evil fascism. People here in Europe don’t know about AMERICAblog, they don’t know the names Russ Feingold or Howard Dean; their ostensibly unbiased and comprehensive media has been less-than-reliable when it comes to reporting on the American people’s fight against their own government. But everywhere else that I’ve gone, people seem to want to believe in that resistance. Everywhere but here.
Why not England? Has it been too long since they’ve had a revolution? Are they too used to thinking of themselves as the center of the civilized world, and whatever anyone else is doing, it is automatically less than what they’d do in the circumstances? Americans are less politically apathetic than the English I’ve met so far. Do I need to remind anyone that Tony Blair–the man that dragged his country into the Iraq war with less cause even than Bush–is still in power, and nobody here in London appears to be rallying in the street about that fact? England used to rule the world. Now they sit by and drink tea while their government gets bullied by mine. Of course they need a scapegoat, and why not some random American traveler? That’s a lot less dangerous than actually fighting Blair and Bush.
Look, some things are inescapable. If Bush is affecting the whole world, then he’s the whole world’s problem, not just America’s. It’s embarrassingly disingenuous to say, “Damn, your president is ruining the world, better get a different one, American,” and then fold you newspaper over and read about Man Utd. You get off your ass and help me, fellow human being. Join the mutiny, or go down with the fucking ship.
Obviously, not every Englishperson feels like that one drunk does. I remember the huge protests here against the war. But is the war “all Bush’s fault”? I sense an aura of victimization vibes swirling around the brow chakra of the English public. And I’m afraid for them. If they fall into a spiteful blaming of Americans for everything, with themselves as the poor bullied civilized gentlemen, that’ll be just as bigoted and impotent as Americans buying French wine and pouring it into the gutter. And god knows, you don’t want to be like us, do you?



